The Process of Departure

 I looked out the window at a Ryanair plane and wondered why everything looked so dark, briefly thinking the windows were shaded.  But no, it is still night. I was rushing at the end to get out of the hotel, repacking, etc, to get to airport on time (how many flights have I managed to miss vs how many trips I've ever taken?  Let's just say the percentage is high.) I'd set an alarm for 1:30 am, and then of course didn't want to get up.  But once I got here, the people I encountered were very awake, and the line moved slow, so somehow t forgot it was the middle of the night.

Walking to the gate, once past check-in of course, I heard snoring, and continued to pass all the sleeping travelers, passed out in corners or making use of the closed eating areas to camp out. It's very quiet. Everything is shut.

The hotel was about a five minute cab ride from the airport. 20 Euros.  That hour-long ride to Leon was a steal in retrospect, considering he had to drive the hour back; it was 100 Euros.  A woman with a bike told me she paid a similar amount when she hurt her foot, and needed to transport self and bike.

The neighborhood was interesting, reminded me more of Latin America than Europe. I wouldn't think it was Madrid. I went for a walk in the heat. I was looking for a cafe or grocery store, there was actually a huge grocery store next to hotel, but I didn't see it because I went in the other direction.  What I did encounter was a weird sound coming from the trees.  An almost metallic chirp; I think it was some sorta insect, do they have cicadas here?  The few I caught a glimpse of looked like mutant crickets.  They blended in with the bark and were hard to see.

Later I walked toward a park, stopped at a cafe.  More birds than flies, the birds were landing on people, I think many were fledglings. They were panting in the heat.  Under the covered terrace water would spray down periodically to help cool things down, and I think they liked that, too.  In the park there was a small flock of green parrots.

It's a quiet area. Reminds me of visiting my grandma in El Paso: location, landscape, heat, and quality of light.

This was the first hotel I stayed in that was staffed 24 hours.  Also, had a restaurant (where I forced myself to get up and go eat at around 10:30 last night), offered laundry service, room service, especially if you are feeling sick, and had taxis waiting outside 24/7.  Also, pretty wide clientele, now that I'm off the Camino circuit (though plenty of peregrinos, too. My cab driver to the airport asked me about it, since I had a backpack.) I think it was less expensive than where I stayed in Santiago.  That was nice enough, though the bathroom wasn't particularly clean. It was a good location, mix of hotels and locals, just outside the historic area.

The room was remarkably cold. Outside the temp said 45, but that was in the direct sun, I think it was only high 90's...arrive and leave in a heatwave. 

Planes, trains, and automobiles

 I arrived in Santiago on July 1.  Somehow had conveniently booked a hotel near the new bus terminal, so leaving was easy enough. Never did make it to visit St James, though did walk through door of pardon (only open in Holy Years.) Everytime I tried to go there was a Mass in session, or yesterday, there was an ordination, and I didn't make it back.  Had spent far too much of my midday looking for someplace to eat, finally ended up at the Parador cafe, which is outside and not as expensive as the restaurant itself, plus there were tables available.  And then I wanted to take a nap before the 10-hour bus ride, plus repack.

I arrived at the airport before 7 this morning. My flight is at 6 am tomorrow. When I booked the hotel, I still thought I'd need to get a COVID test before flying home, but at any rate I had 5 hours to wait before I could check in.  Working up the courage to figure out how to hail a cab. Have never done it. There is a bus, but I don't know which stop to get off at.  Apparently I could walk, too, but I have no idea which way to go, and it's hot again.

7 days to go

Fonfria Dining Hall, Summer 2022

Fonfria, Galicia.  June 25.  I suppose with elevation gain I walked 30 kms today, the last six with grim determination; my feet were killing me.  Also, in the past week we've gone from heat stroke conditions to hypothermia conditions, granted we crossed a mountain today, but definitely cold. Well at least while the rain fell, and then the sun would come back up and steam would rise up off the asphalt and the rain gear would feel like overkill.

Sunday, June 26.  In the morning it's 1degree Celsius. Granted, it is around 4,000 ft.  I stopped in the next village for a coffee to warm my hands.  I'm not sure how to properly pack for temp swings between 104 and 33 degrees, but I'm wearing most of my clothing this morning. Because of where I stopped last night I'll have to walk almost 30 kms today. I lay awake anxious, thinking of my options. 1) Take a bus down mountain and walk from there (steep descent); 2) Walk as much as I can find some way to get to albergue, even if I have to call a cab; 3) Send pack using transport.  In the end I chose option 3. I woke up early enough, but by time I got around to looking at bus schedule, I'd already missed early one, 6:15 am. Next was at 10 am, which was too long to wait.  The thing about transport is you have to know ahead of time where you will stay, and you have to get there. It loses spontaneity, but does force you to proceed.  I did make it to Sarria, many of the shorter options not open.

Biduedo to Triacastela, Summer 2022

(Written on July 4, after the fact) I ended up shipping my bag 3 days in a row, and when I carried it again, more than 30 kms, and missed my place and had to do an extra couple kms to get back to it, I'm not sure my feet felt a huge amount of difference with or without, though some of the descents were dicey with the weight.

And on that note, the elevation maps are a bit misleading on the last five days, there is so little flat walking, going uphill is easy in sore feet, the downs are the hard part, which seem true given all the bloody knees from slipping, and dead toenails. Savor the flat and the dirt paths.

And also on that note, some of the paths really should be retired, or at least given more of a sense of how bad they are (official route down to bridge in Portomarin, basically a narrow chute of steep rock, which I only made down because a man suddenly appeared behind me and grabbed my arm to guide me down, basically, adding stability.  And that was without a pack.) I did make it across bridge without a panic attack. I focused on the woman's bag in front of me until she stopped mid-bridge. And it's easier on the left side for some reason. I was thinking I might have to ask for help, luckily I wasn't alone this time.

The other treacherous descent is the official route out of Melide.  The C Complimentario being a better option.

Ambasmestas

 I guess the reason for her difficulty was that so many accommodations we're closed. Hard to tell if temporary or permanent. I saw very few people walking today, mostly encountered cyclists.  Took a long lunch break, checked my guide and happily realized I had less than 6 kms to go. This is a very quiet village.  I think there are other people staying here. I have a covered balcony. It overlooks main street, but at least I can put my shoes outside.  I'm staying in a hotel. (53 Euros for room and board. And I'm glad I chose that, as there really isn't any place else to eat, unless I walk one village back or one forward.)

Stopped for second breakfast in Villafranca del Bierzo, and to go to pharmacy. Pharmacist wanted to look at my feet. He put a bandage over my tailor's bunion as if it were a blister. I thought it was sweet, though I did have to reposition it further on.  It did help with the pain in the end. 

I'm still full from lunch and dinner is in an hour.  Breakfast is at 7:15, it'll be another late start.  I wonder how busy it really is? 

I think I hear a bread van, kinda late in the day.

Hotel Ambasmestas, 2022

Raining

Stopped into a winery for a sample, but really this means "last chance for a bio break." While I was drinking the wine and eating the tapa of cheese balls, I looked up and it was dumping rain, so at least I was able to pull out all the rain gear under a roof.  Then of course I was under a clear patch for the next 6 kms or so.  Decided to stay in town, only one other in shared room so far.  Wearing mask, using hand sanitizer as I saw a positive COVID test on the check-in desk.  Hoping for the best, how many people have I encountered where I didn't know? I had a booster about three weeks before I left.  I probably should've walked further today, my feet feel okay, and it makes for a long next couple of days.

My roommate has to send her bag forward and was feeling anxious that she couldn't find any available place.  I walked into the place I am today, but booked tomorrow.  At least it includes dinner + breakfast.

I wandered and got lost earlier. In Cacabelos.  Last night in Ponferrada.  Was finally able to visit castle. My feet were killing me, but then I went to the Museum of El Bierzo, too.  They were all free yesterday.  I would like to spend more time there, also in Leon.

I wasn't able to catch the bus to Leon, and because I had booked a room, felt like I should get there. I was offered a cab, it was very expensive, but I took it.  Got me there four hours early.  Found a farmers market and wandered.  Then went to try to find hostel. Then sat at a cafe and ate slowly.  When I checked in, the first thing the clerk pointed out to me was the nearest laundromat.  Did I smell bad? Perhaps. I did want to do laundry. It was in the residential part of town; and it was fast. Went and had a coffee while my clothes washed, and stayed for the dryer.  Later went back to Cathedral (with my laundry in tow.) I haven't been back since 2005, I appreciate the stained glass more now, though I still like the cloister.  I went to a couple other places in the morning before I had to check out.  Still, there's a lot more I'd like to see.

The hospitalero in Villalcazar offered to drive me to Carrion de los Condes because I think he thought I was ill, I'd been coughing up hairballs all morning, I think it was from all the debris in the air the day before.  Anyway, I walked.  It was cold. Fog dropped down in fingers making everything blurry. About halfway, the sun was high enough to hit the fog and make an arc of light, like a rainbow without color.  It was beautiful. It drifted apart and then re-formed a short time later.  So, it was a good walk, and then a long cab ride.  I will book bus tickets ahead of time.  (There was only one daily bus.) Cheers.

Fogbow, walking to Carrion de los Condes, L Herlevi

Only One Week In

 It's weird already thinking about planning the rest of my days to make my flight. I feel like I just got here.  The weather was funny today, just enough big drops of rain coming down to make everyone stop to put on rain gear only to stop and get warm again as soon as you got covered up.  The shop owner was telling me it had been quite crowded even a week ago, but now very few people are coming through. I'm walking to the next village then catching a bus to Leon. Then I'll either go to Astorga to see the museums or to Ponferrada to see the castle, then start walking again.  Should be able to walk the rest and then make my flight.  Of course if I do, I'll hit the crowds.  And I ve met a lot of interesting people.  That's life, though.  I have to do what's best for me. In Villalcazar de Sirga. Last night in Boadilla.  The food is quite good.

Now it is Autumn

 We've gone from 104 F to 72 F today. The lows will be in the 40's for next week or so.  Windy, too, though this seems to be a windy area. Didn't get walking until probably 7:30 ish. When I woke up half the room had already left, which is quite the change from yesterday, where it was noisy and someone turned on the lights at 10 before 5 am.  I only woke up this morning because someone's alarm went off at 5:30 am.  Walked just under 20 kms.

For the record: Burgos, Tardajos, Hontanas, Castojeriz, Boadilla del Camino. I probably could've walked further, but everyone else was heading to Fromista, and it seemed like it might get hard to find a bed, plus the food here is good, and there's a huge yard to hang out in. I'll probably catch a bus to Leon or Astorga soon, getting short on time.

I have a wool top on, it feels chilly after a week over 100.

Bit the Bullet

 Staying in a big albergue in Hontanas, seems to still have beds. I'd stopped in a place called San Bol, it was full, so I couldn't stay. I'd gotten blisters because it's tailor's bunion pain or blisters (not lacing first part of show to create more space in the toe box, it makes my feet slide more.) These French peregrinos didn't think I should walk to next village, distance, heat, limping, and asked the man who was cleaning if he'd drive me there, also he called and held a bed for me, and for another French peregrino, whom I think has a knee issue. So, we are both here.  Also, the kindness of the French people kept making me cry.

Have finally done laundry, waiting for a shower. Then I'll have to deal with my feet more.

My internet is dropping in and out. Apparently my phone company was bought out, and I might have issues until I remove and reload app. I can't remember my password, neglected to write it down.  

The storm arrived late. I was watching TV but turned it off because I thought it was flashing too much.  In retrospect, I think it was the lightning. Flashed for a long time in silence, got quite windy, when I looked out the window, lots of crap blowing under the street lamps.

Later the rain came, and I thought I saw some pale animal dashing through the wheat.  Been humid today.

Lots and lots of butterflies today. Also a couple of big green lizards. Woke up at 5:30, but didn't get out until 7. Will probably easier tomorrow with all the other people getting up.

A woman who was washing laundry with me said she hasn't booked ahead at all.

Cheers

What to do

 Lost my post, internet cut out.  It's getting stormy, breezy and actual clouds, yet still quite bright and hot. Came outside, my room was getting too hot.  We're going to get a thunderstorm.

So, I've been averaging between 40-50 Euros/night for lodging, and still coming up empty for pre-booking tomorrow, so do I just wing it and hope I find a bed? Not all places let you prebook, and I know COVID protocols changed things, but it's kinda lonely travelling this way (and I really need laundry facilities.). Should I cut the chord and just walk? Worst case scenario, I'll have to find someone to help me find a bed, and hail a cab, which will be stressful, but I was seeing 70 Euro/night, and that's not sustainable for long-term.  Wish me luck.

The thunderstorm won't cool things down much, though once again the breeze is nice.

New City, Still Hot

 Made it to Burgos midday. I almost missed my bus, driver was pulling away from curb by the time I figured out how to use the door, everything has become touch-free, but I was confused if it was a door. Anyway, he let me get on the bus, even got off to let me stow my backpack in the hold.

It was pretty full, but since it's mandatory to wear a mask on public transport, everyone was. And that was good, as there were several people coughing and sneezing, including person right behind me (I'm writing on my phone and it keeps auto-correcting me.)

Anyway, by the time I started walking it was really hot, and I drank a whole bottle of water in the first km or so.  This place is nice, outside the city, west, I guess.  I ended up booking another hotel for tomorrow, though I can't keep doing this.  Also, it's closer than I want to be, but tomorrow will be the hottest day, and everywhere close, i.e., next 20 kms, is booked.  I got a lot of time to kill tomorrow. Someone told me that people are leaving at 4:30 am to beat the heat.

I went back to an ermita I'd passed earlier. It was still open, the sign seemed like there should be a Mass, but there was only a groundskeeper working and a woman sitting on a bench but she got up and walked toward the gate when I passed.  No one inside.  I got a bit emotional.  Hard to explain.  Tiny space, a figure lying in repose taking up most of the aisle.  The ermita is for St Amaro?  French, I think.  Anyway, I touched his feet, put my palm against each of his soles; they felt real, the shape, the way my hands held against them.  Asked for a blessing of my feet. Santiago was at the altar, asked for a pilgrims' blessing since I began my journey in a bus station.  After I moved my hands away from his feet, the building started creaking. And yeah, there is wind blowing, and it's a very old structure, still, it was a bit spooky.  When I walked back out the groundskeeper and the woman were in deep conversation.

I bought some fruit on my way back, then went to the bar nextdoor. Strong cross breeze blowing through.  Out through the back door, there's a big playground.  And in spite of the heat, people out for evening stroll, at the playground, having picnics in the park.  I would've stay, but have to get up early.  I can hear the people outside, both bar patrons and playground.  Alas, I can't hear the music, was really enjoying it, kinda 80's music, but Spanish.

It's too light out to sleep.